Author Topic: Location of Hood frame bracket on a 71 Moke (Read 1372 times)

Wobbly Boot · « **on:** November 20, 2018, 10:22:35 PM »

Just got a set of hood brackets to replace my non existent ones. The position of the rear ones are easy enough to find, the po or whomever in my Megs past life ground them off but left enough of a scar for location id purposees, however the front ones are a mystery. Can someone measure the distance from the kick board to the centre of the front hood frame bracket and the distance in from the edge of the pontoon to the bracket for me.
TIA

Pete Power · « **Reply #1 on:** November 21, 2018, 11:13:12 AM »

I believe the Hood connection points did change over the years, so it may also depend on the type of hood frames you have.

Terry · « **Reply #2 on:** November 21, 2018, 12:56:55 PM »

Quote from: Pete Power on November 21, 2018, 11:13:12 AM

I believe the Hood connection points did change over the years, so it may also depend on the type of hood frames you have.

The rear position changed, but the front/main bow position stayed the same.

Terry

Wobbly Boot · « **Reply #3 on:** November 21, 2018, 01:33:30 PM »

I see in some of the photos of 70s era top fill mokes that the front brackets is pretty close to the fuel cap. Is the location super critical or is near enough good enough? Good point PP I should have a look at my hood bows.

moemoke · « **Reply #4 on:** November 21, 2018, 11:06:54 PM »

Some pics of hood bow brackets.

late model brackets, these us vertically straight hood bows

early model brackets, these use curved lower bars.

early model rear bars, with lower curved section

late model side view

late model rear view with straight bars

the location of the front brackets need to be roughly right (say within 50mm or so) to allow the hood bows to fold back properly.

Terry · « **Reply #5 on:** November 22, 2018, 10:10:41 AM »

Hi,

From the outside edge of the top panel to the centre of the bracket is 55-60mm and the pivot pin in the bracket is 10-15mm forward of the hole that fastens the battery box cover.

The lower part of the 'Y' on the front bar should be vertical in my opinion, but some people lay them back a little bit to make getting in and out of the front seats easier and from the factory they tend to be leaning forward, but all this then that affects how the roof line looks. I think it should be flat/horizontal between the two bars at the top and then sloping down to the rear bar.

The distance from the top edge of the windscreen to the centre of the forward bow varies on the 3 Moke I just measured between 350mm and 400mm and two of those were on unmolested factory canopies. When I made the hardtop roof for the Beach Boys Moke I think I worked on 450mm from the windscreen.

If you look at the second picture MoeMoke posted you should be able to make a straight line that clears between the back of the filler cap and front of the battery box cover and I reckon you will be pretty close to original position.

Terry

Wobbly Boot · « **Reply #6 on:** November 23, 2018, 08:29:09 AM »

Thanks Terry and MM you have been most helpful. Hopefully will be welded on in the right spot within the week.
Ta Brian

Pete Power · « **Reply #7 on:** November 26, 2018, 12:28:49 PM »

great photo montage Moe. Well done.

Wobbly Boot · « **Reply #8 on:** December 18, 2018, 10:48:45 PM »

Once again thanks all for your input. I really should have looked closer at my hood bows, two front bows one late model rear. Sighs. Two choices- get some angle and go with the bows i have or hunt for a rear set. At this stage I am leaning towards using the late model bows, any thoughts or things that might come back to bite me if I go with the straight rear bow?

Terry · « **Reply #9 on:** December 18, 2018, 11:20:26 PM »

Hi,

what is the "or hunt for rear seat" comment about? Regardless of he hood bow you use, there is no difference on the rear seat.

Terry

Pete Power · « **Reply #10 on:** December 19, 2018, 09:45:07 AM »

Terry, "Rear Set" put ya glasses on

Terry · « **Reply #11 on:** December 19, 2018, 11:02:42 AM »

Quote from: Pete Power on December 19, 2018, 09:45:07 AM

Terry, "Rear Set" put ya glasses on

Thank you.

Terry · « **Reply #12 on:** December 19, 2018, 01:52:42 PM »

Quote from: Wobbly Boot on December 18, 2018, 10:48:45 PM

Once again thanks all for your input. I really should have looked closer at my hood bows, two front bows one late model rear. Sighs. Two choices- get some angle and go with the bows i have or hunt for a rear set. At this stage I am leaning towards using the late model bows, any thoughts or things that might come back to bite me if I go with the straight rear bow?

The angle mounted on the rear guard is more to do with the mounting points for your canopy, so if you already have a canopy off the early model Moke then it will not match up with the fittings on the angled piece. If you do have an earlier canopy then just fit a plastic boot trimmers triangle mount and use the late model rear bow.

https://www.bcf.com.au/p/bla-deck-mount/M127167.html?dwvar_M127167_color=Black&cgid=BCF010530#segment=1&page=1

Terry

moemoke · « **Reply #13 on:** December 19, 2018, 10:36:01 PM »

We have later straight rear bars on our '76 moke, they seem to work ok except that they don't hold
the back side of the roof tight but this depends on the style of roof you have.

Ours has been like this since the early 90's when we had the roof made but wasn't aware of it
till Terry pointed it out about 5-10 years ago.

Wobbly Boot · « **Reply #14 on:** December 20, 2018, 07:39:12 AM »

As it happens I don’t have a canopy as yet so the attachment points matching up that you mention Terry can be worked to suit the canopy when I finally get Meg mobile. Looks like I might go with what I have. Thanks for your advice everyone.