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Author Topic: Martins Moke - Reliving the past  (Read 62905 times)

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Biggles

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Re: Martins Moke - the tidy up begins
« Reply #30 on: March 08, 2009, 10:42:00 PM »
Thanks Terry that makes sense. I'll do the same.
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martin

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Re: Martins Moke - the tidy up begins
« Reply #31 on: March 08, 2009, 11:15:55 PM »
Hi Terry
Thank you for that - the top arms I have, have a flat area cast on them where the bump stop would hit - does the hyda one bolt over the top of that?

I will have to check if we are allowed to weld bits onto the subframe without getting engineers certification.
if so you have solved my problem.
Thank you
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Terry

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Re: Martins Moke - the tidy up begins
« Reply #32 on: March 08, 2009, 11:31:45 PM »
Hi,

The hydra bump stop mounts over the cast flat area and if you do a nice weld then there should be no problems because you are not welding the steering or suspension.

Terry
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martin

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Re: Martins Moke - the tidy up begins
« Reply #33 on: March 09, 2009, 08:02:30 AM »
Now the questions will keep coming!

Is there a thread on the forum to show how to make a donut compressor?

While I am at it, I might as well fit hi/lo's where do I buy them?

Cheers
Martin
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moemoke

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Re: Martins Moke - the tidy up begins
« Reply #34 on: March 09, 2009, 09:24:05 AM »
I think there is a post on a compressors, found this one under 'cone compressor', try doing a search for donut,
doughnut or spring compressor

http://moke.com.au/Forum/index.php?topic=1940.0

If you cannot get Hi-Lo's in NZ try one of the ones in this link

http://moke.com.au/Forum/index.php?topic=2791.0
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martin

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Re: Martins Moke - the tidy up begins
« Reply #35 on: March 09, 2009, 10:04:02 AM »
Thanks Moe
I reckon I should be able to make a compressor similar to that.

Cheers
Martin
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middie

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Re: Martins Moke - the tidy up begins
« Reply #36 on: March 09, 2009, 01:19:34 PM »
Here's a very simple donut compressor which just requires a bit of cutting and welding.

Step 1: buy two H14 bolts about 150mm (assuming the thread in your donut is the same as Middie)
Step 2: cut the top off bolt 1, and the bottom off bolt 2
Step 3: now weld the bottom of bolt 1 and the top of bolt 2 together to give yourself quite a long H14 bolt. (You could also weld the other left over bits to make up two compressors)
Step 4: now use a series of spacers to keep the head of the new bolt well above the subframe, and start tightening up. The bolt will tighten down as far as it can before it can't move any more because of the spacers, in which case it will now start pulling the donut up (therefore compressing).


The socket, bearing and nut are merely to fill up the space after the bolt was screwed down into the donut

You can look at Middie's post where I was blabbering about this at
http://moke.com.au/Forum/index.php?topic=2683.150

Good luck

Wiz
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Biggles

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Re: Martins Moke - the tidy up begins
« Reply #37 on: March 09, 2009, 02:20:28 PM »
Holy smoke batman,

Did you come up with that all by yourself wiz?

You are smarter than we give you credit for.

When i checked my donuts the threads were
damaged badly by rust. I think the bolt would
just pull out whats left of the thread.


                smokey
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middie

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Re: Martins Moke - the tidy up begins
« Reply #38 on: March 09, 2009, 04:51:25 PM »
As ex-president Roosevelt said "walk softly but carry a big stick".

So you have seen through my charade, both Turnip Boy and myself are 4-star mechanics and electricians :D We're really just having fun stirring up the forum.

Wiz the Incongnito
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Terry

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Re: Martins Moke - the tidy up begins
« Reply #39 on: March 09, 2009, 10:05:54 PM »
Wiz,

Have you actually used your compressor? And did it work?

Terry
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middie

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Re: Martins Moke - the tidy up begins
« Reply #40 on: March 10, 2009, 07:45:12 AM »
Quote from: Terry on March 09, 2009, 10:05:54 PM
Wiz,

Have you actually used your compressor? And did it work?

Terry

Yep, worked like a "store bought one". Absolutely no problems at all, and very cheap to make. Although I'll embarrasingly admit that my Blue Slip Inspector came up with the idea :D

Wiz
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martin

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Re: Martins Moke - the tidy up begins
« Reply #41 on: March 10, 2009, 07:42:05 PM »
Wiz
you are a genious, no matter what "the others" say. ::)

I might try using M14 threaded rod as I think we have some at work (one of the advantages of working at Blackwoods!)
I have got the subframe stripped to that point so am ready to take the donuts out.
Ill let you know how I went
cheers
Martin 
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moemoke

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Re: Martins Moke - the tidy up begins
« Reply #42 on: March 10, 2009, 08:31:58 PM »
All thread is better than butt welding 2 bolts together, like I did it broke :(, best to weld a sleeve
over the butt weld as well.
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1974 Moke with Suzuki GTI motor (project), 
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middie

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Re: Martins Moke - the tidy up begins
« Reply #43 on: March 10, 2009, 08:49:38 PM »
Quote from: martin on March 10, 2009, 07:42:05 PM
I might try using M14 threaded rod as I think we have some at work (one of the advantages of working at Blackwoods!)

cheers
Martin 

I actually tried Blackwoods to get some all thead, but they said it was "not viable to get some up here to the Central Coast". Hence the welded bolts.

Don't forget you are going to have to work out some way to stop the all thread screwing "into" the donut, and start "pulling up" the donut. Some sort of top.

Wiz
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Terry

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Re: Martins Moke - the tidy up begins
« Reply #44 on: March 10, 2009, 11:37:49 PM »
Hi,

In the Wiz design you are continually turning the bolt/thread which means there is thread coming out the bottom of the donut. Wiz has been fortunate but if you have a long bolt in the Hi-Lo or the recent Hi-Lo's coming out of Syndey which are sealed across the top then you runt he risk of the 'puller' thread hitting on the hi-lo. This could be handy for seperating them when pulling one that is corroded in there(makes mental note to make a extra long threaded thing for pushing trumpet off Donut) but could make re-assembly difficult.

The 'factory' type have an extra nut on the top so the bolt can be threaded into the donut and then the nut turned to do the compressing.

Terry
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