Locked in "Cool Breeze" already, eh?

Well, it was sort of locked in for me 

I don't mind though, suits the Moke pretty well I think.


A few random photos - feel free to comment if you see anything wrong/wierd.









Sorry some of the photography isn't that great, but you get the general idea.


Here's one of the engine bay. The charcoal cannister (which is in upside down for some reason  ) is going so that I can make room for a battery in the engine compartment . Can someone tell me how to reroute the hoses please? Anyone notice anything else?




Newie

The indicator and parking light are clearance lights and not legal as the primary indicator.

Good - They annoy me - I really don't like them. Just trying to decide what to put there 

And what is that blue hose connected to? It looks like it goes from the radiator heater outlet to the manifold.

Yes, it is. I thought initially that it was a water heated manifold, but it's a full cast manifold - I thought the water heated ones were only the small ones to be used with extractors?

Wheels are non genuine, you will need to take them off and put some pressed metal rims on and send the old mags down here.

Nice try 


The rest of it I will check out in the morning

Thanks

Newie

I'm pretty sure that prior to 77ish any moke that had an 1100 or 1275 had the fire wall depression
It was to allow room for the bigger aircleaner that went with these motors.

If it was a genuine export it would have a few other body changes apart from the rear tank
and thicker guards (which may be hiding behind those UGLY rubber flares). what changes you ask?
The radiator panel which on a normal moke has the body number stamped it not very wide, does your have
this or is that a piece of rubber between rad and body?
Also the panel between rad and wheel has a removable section, about the bottom 5" or so.
Any sign of a rear tank inlet in the back panel?

About to head down to the shed and investigate further, but just another tidbit speaking of engines.

The woman I bought it off told me it had a 1275 in it when she got it (which she swapped into her new Moke) but the rego papers say 1098. She had the engine number changed on the rego when she changed engine (amazingly) but never bothered changing the engine size. I'm wondering whether it actually had an 1100 in it originally - or at some stage.


Newie

Further to ID question, it has the body no stamped into the horizontal plate just below the expansion tank



I also noticed that it has heater brackets on the inside firewall if that helps.

Pulled expansion tank off to seeif there was a number there, but no.

Also when I changed seats over I had a good look at seat support but couldn't see anything. Tried feeling underneath for indentations of stamps as Terry suggested but can't feel anything. There are a few sections of very light surface rust on floor and paint is pretty ordinary, so after I get back from Aimees, I'm planning to pull seats back out, clean it up and give it a coat of chook poo before putting back seats on. Will hit seat support with a wire brush then to see if any numbers show up.


Other jobs completed so far:

- Flex brake lines have been cable tied away from moving parts (but checked for free movement with steering). They're not damaged at all. Shiny marks on inside of tyre that MD picked up are from plastic guards over shocks which just barely touch tyre on full lock. The other mark on the disc that he picked up on looks much worse in the photo than in real life. Cant see anything rubbing and I'm thinking it must be something on the pad. Not pulling that apart at this stage  .

- Ugly flexi flares are gone. Unfortunately ugly screw holes are still there, but that can be dealt with later.

- Mirror arms and spacers are still intact on red Cali, so will be borrowed/copied for this one.

- Borrowed flat radiator cap off red cali as CB had two expansion caps

- Ran hose from overflow tank down guard so that overflow doesn't spray all over motor.

- Stripped dodgy fake sidebox cover stickers of side boxes.


Things checked but still needing attention:

- Terry was right that front muffler bracket is missing - should be able to make something up with some heavy rubber belt? Wire/cable that he could see sticking up above muffler is actually an excessively long brake line which has been bent up out of the way. Very soft so I assume it's copper. Bent them further up out of the way of snags etc, so I'm thinking it's another job for 'ron.

- Alternator wires - I have one light wire going to dashlight, one heavy brown wire (patched and needs replacing) going to solenoid and one 3mm black wire.............joined up to brown wire onto solenoid 


Some extra questions

Anyone recognise this type of fuel pump? Looks cheap and nasty to me. I think it's new as there's a shiny new passivated zinc cover over the mechanical fuel pump hole.





Have I got a rod change gearbox?




Thanks

Newie

Thanks Moe,

Coolant dribbled out of the hose when I pulled it off, but I was thinking the same as you - maybe the inlet into the maniflod is blocked off.

Will investigate further...................

Like a kid at Xmas....

The blue hose must be blocked somewhere - or I imagine the motor would have stopped looooong ago. As you say, it is just a standard 998 pollution manifold for the air pump and gulp valve. You wont need either of the connections, so just find a chair stopper or plug for the big one and leave the plug on the little one.

Yep, dont know what santa's like at your place, but the Moke's better than any Christmas present I've gotten 

Blue hose WAS blocked (of course). Deliberately blocked half way along. Apparently PO had the bright idea that rather than block off the heater outlet and inlet manifold seperately (like I've done now) they would get one great long blue hose to do both jobs 

I've removed the charcoal cannister and decided I'll put a fuel filter on the rocker cover breather hose (somewhere down out of sight).

Put a new choke cable in, as the other one was seized solid and the PO gave me a new one which she hadn't gotten around to putting in.

Choke cable took about half an hour - fixing all the electricals which fell apart when we took the dash out took about 4 hours  Well, actually "fixed" is overstating it a bit - will definitely need to be revisited, but at least now it is a lot better than it was before and less chance of wires coming loose just  driving around (which they would have nearly had to do the way they were.

Pretty happy with today's progress. Main thing that needs to be done tomorrow is adjustment of brakes while I have my assistant here. A few other things which would be nice to have done before my runs, but we'll see how far we get.


Newie