1980 Cali rebuild.... Let the games begin

[Beno]

Thanks Dev,
I'm hoping that most of these parts will be tucked away from the sunlight but those that aren't I will spray a top coat of something else on to stop them getting sunburnt

[Beno]

I've only really got the steering rack and the pedal housing to take apart, clean and service before I can start to put things back together while I'm waiting for the body.

I need some forum expertise assistance with a couple little things though.

1. What do I need to do to the steering rack?

2. How do I take apart the pedal housing as one of the bolts has round nuts on the end of the thread and the main not will not budge, I've got some photos below.

[dacjac]

That round nut that won't budge is the steering column bolt ? I managed to find new replacement ones somewhere, check the usual mini suppliers on line. I just cut it off as it is a shear nut/ has a hex that shears off at a certain tourque and leaves you with the round security nut.
Others on here may have a better solution but that's how I tackled it on my build.

Cheers,

Al.

[Terry]

Hi,

The round nut has two 'lugs' on it that locate it into the bracket so it will not move, think square bolt in a square hole. You need to undo it using a spanner on the hex end off the bolt.

It may be stiff to turn as the bolt acts as a pivot for the pedals and they tend to seize onto the bolt/pivot so you will find you will need to do lots of wiggling, spray of CRC/WD40 type chemicals and maybe even some heat. On the plus side it is out of the Moke so you can do it all on the bench in a vice.

Terry

[Terry]

Hi,

to remove the steering arms from the Steering Tie Rod Ends you need to use a Ball Joint Breaker as below the thread is a tapered body that needs to be pressed out.

You maybe able to find one locally in a good tools supplier or even Repco/Bursons tend to have them on the shelf.

If you are ordering parts from one of the suppliers you might find they have them for sale too, http://www.minisplus.com.au/moke/product/881-ball-joint-breaker-our-top-choice

Terry

[Beno]

Thanks to you both, I will get cracking with your advice and see how we go.
I have a feeling that shear nut is going to test my temper, will let you know how I go.

[Beno]

What have others done when it came time to body work with the holes made by the small clips used for the roof and side curtain set up.. A lot of mine are crooked and want to know if people filled them and then re drilled in different spots or do they have to be in that exact spot for the fitting of side curtains? This pic isn't as bad as the couple on other side but I didn't get a phot of those before it went to panel beater.

[Pete Power]

No Harm in filling and redrilling. Unless you have a hood already? then you will need to redrill in same position but at least you can level and even them up, it wouldn't make any difference to the soft top.
If you are getting a new soft top you will be able to put them where it best suits your new soft top as you normally have to put the holes for the lift the dot fasteners in so it suits the car.

[Terry]

Hi,

If you decide to fill the holes, and I would suggest only one of each pair gets 'filled', then be careful if you attempt to weld them. Weld is much stronger than mild steel of the body so when you or the upholsterer try to put a small drill back in there to create te new hole you can break the drill and or scratch the paint if you hit the weld.

I would leave one hole in place and align the fittings so they are horizontal and drill the new hole so that the centre pin that the canopy fits on is more or less in the same position. Then you can see if you can weld or maybe a reinforced body filler can be used to fill the old hole.

Terry

[Beno]

I do have a hood with sides but I will probably sell that because I want to change the colour scheme.
I think the idea of filling one side might be the winner, I'll give it a crack.

The moke should be done at the panel beaters all nice and straight with a new paint job in about 3 weeks. 

[mellowyellow]

Hi Beno, don't sell your hood and side curtains yet. If you are going to get a new one, the motor trimmer can use what you have as a template to make a new one for you. Some of the hoods available aren't as good a design as the original, particularly the doors. I had a newish hood on the minibeast but no doors. I was lucky the local trimmer used to make moke hoods and side curtains for the local BMC place when it was around. He just had to make "doors" for me and put a zip in the back window.

[Beno]

Yeah thanks Mellow Yellow, that was my plan because my current one had quite a good fit with a few things that needed work to make it better but hoping they can be fixed this time around.

[Beno]

Well the moke is due back from panel beaters in the next two weeks.

In the meantime I have to get my arse into gear when work gives me a break and start putting things back together.

Also Wanting to know what others coated/painted the inside of their battery compartment. Mine had some sort of tar based product painted on it to prevent any corrosion.

[dacjac]

Hi Beno,

Exciting times, getting the body back from the painters
I used a rubber / bitumen type paint inside my boxes, I can't remember the product but will probably still have the can at home I'll try to look for it tonight, still looks good and some extra protection with things bouncing around in there. Also painting with a brush lets you get into all the nooks that spraying probably would miss.



Cheers,

Al.

[Terry]

Hi,

The factory did use some sort of black rubbery sealer in places like the battery box, but pretty sure it is not bitumen/tar based.

I don't like using the bitumen based products any more as they tend to get a bit gooey in the heat and are very messy to apply and clean off. Having said that the stuff DJ has used appears to be a very nice looking stoneguard type of product that looks better than the type I used to use.

Terry