Sump Guard

[thorlek]

Hey All,

Do people use Sump Guards on their Mokes?

I got one on the weekend with a Moke I bought, its heavy as all hell, and has an excellent patina, but would clean up perfectly with a wire wheel and some paint.

i guess i need to know if its something I should keep, or sell or pass on or what ever

[Pete Power]

I got one with MM, took it off the first day I got it and it has sat behind the shed since.
I keep thinking off getting a couple of slots cut in the front and putting some fancy grille work across the holes and getting it hot dip galv, but.....

[Halfpint]

Hi,
If you dont think you need it, you probably dont need it.
But, if you want to drive in some harsh conditions, like down a serious off road track, or even a flight of stairs from time to time, it may come in handy.There is a lot of "for" and "against" with them. But for me, I like to have one handy, better to carry a little extra weight, than tow a much bigger one
Spose its like the tyre protectors on the trailing arm pins, Until something goes wrong, thats when you wish you had it covered 
HP

[Terry]

Hi,

On a 1275 some people think you need to run oil coolers if you have a sump guard but with some holes cut into the front I know of someone's Moke that runs fine. I tend to agree with HP in that unless you are planning to travel on bush roads or tracks where the wheel ruts tend to lower the clearance to the sump so they can be good protection, but they are not needed on stairs.

If you like getting muddy then they can cause problems with the flat bottom 'suctioning' onto the mud making it near impossible to lift out of a bog and because of the angle if you try to tow it backwards it will become a shovel and dig you deeper.

Terry

[Halfpint]

It is a good discussion topic, and lots of good reasons to use one, and just as many not to.
Just recently I've seen some Aluminium cut down ones off a Rover Mini that looked like a good option for a soft roader (Mainly road with the odd dirt track ). Haven't seen them fitted to a Moke, but assume the holes would line up.
At the Shep Muster there were a few nice after market alloy ones that looked great and had ventilation holes which would also help with weight.

I know the steel ones are very heavy and cumbersome, need to be removed to change the oil, a pain if you happen to drop something like a spanner or a nut, as well as all the things Terry mentioned etc, but I like to have one ready to fit when I want to go on a long trip where I'm not sure what I'm going to come across.
It doesn't take long to remove if I have to, and anyway, for most of the time it just sits in the shed ready to go  .

HP

[mellowyellow]

My moke came with a sump guard. It is a pain to remove it for an oil change, just because it takes a bit of time. But there is access to the sump plug if you have the right type oof spanner. Mine is off at the moment as I was doing a few oil changes to experiment with the smoke at start up problem. It is still off for the "renovation" work that is being done. If I am heading off for a longer run, other than to and from work, I will be putting it back on. Just a bit of protection and piece of mind I guess.

[Terry]

Just recently I've seen some Aluminium cut down ones off a Rover Mini that looked like a good option for a soft roader (Mainly road with the odd dirt track ). Haven't seen them fitted to a Moke, but assume the holes would line up.

HP

Alpine Moke lent/gave me a couple of Rover alloy ones to play with and they don't bolt straight on. All would need the rear mount holes to be drilled in the subframe, on the flat below the lower control arm mount. There are two different mounting options on the ones I have here and either you need to put two new holes in your subframe across the front or drill four holes in the sump guard to match the Moke holes.

Haven't into them any further once i saw they need work to fit.

Terry

[Halfpint]

Ok, thanks Terry.
Do you think there may be differences from an auto compared to a manual, hence the 2 different mounting options?
So a little bit of work to get them to fit then, oh well, they looked ok though.
HP

[Terry]

Ok, thanks Terry.
Do you think there may be differences from an auto compared to a manual, hence the 2 different mounting options?
So a little bit of work to get them to fit then, oh well, they looked ok though.
HP

Could be, but never really taken a close look at a late model Mini to know.

I think I took some photos.

Terry

[alpine moke]

You are correct Halfpint, the alloy sump guards were removed from Rover mini automatic subframes.

The automatic engine and gearboxes are a tad wider then the manual gearbox's and do sit lower in the subframes.

I have fitted a 1992 model auto subframe to my 1966 little wheeler moke, I have used 10 mm steel spacers under the engine mounts to
get the manual gearbox to fit correctly.

Alpine moke

[smokey]

     I would be interested to see a photo of one if someone has any     Hopefully they are not as blunt nosed as the original


      Smokey

[bnicho]

DAV the rally van had an ex-Rover Auto alloy subframe for the 2013 shitbox rally.  It was bent out of shape by the end of the journey.  It only took a few good knocks before it was pushed hard up against the sump.  Since then we have run a standard Aussie Moke sump guard on it.  It has copped some good hits including launching the car off a rock near Birdsville and survived very well.  Hence it's my preference now. 

[thorlek]

     I would be interested to see a photo of one if someone has any     Hopefully they are not as blunt nosed as the original

This is the one I have, It must weigh at least 10kg

[Smoota]

I just put the same sump guard on my moke not a crazy amount of weight either
Hopefully I'll never need to use it lol

All the holes lined up and was easy to get on by myself

[mellowyellow]

Thorlek's photos are the same as my sump guard. There was one sold on ebay in Sydney just recently.