Gizmo's Moke Resto - 12/78 Yellow Devil

[Gizmo.7000]

Thanks Terry.

Yep the diagram confirmed my thoughts on how it goes together.

[Terry]

Hi,
because of the order in the way the bodies were first assembled I think it is very difficult or almost impossible to recreate the original sequence in a repair so as long as you are getting a solid replacement onto good clean metal there are any number of ways to do it.
Terry

[Gizmo.7000]

Thanks Terry.

Yep I thought as much....my plan is to first get the floor sides welded up to the angle iron and the pannier diviers and then weld the replacement bottom hull sections to the main floor pan and then to the inner pan sections that were welded previously. This will be spot welded.

I'll then butt/tack weld across the line where the bottom inner hull section meets the existing top half for further strength and to smooth out any slight gap that will be there.

I'll need to fabricate a few small patches closer to the front as the repair section I got for the bottom of the hull is not high enough...I had to take out a bit more because of the rust in that area near where the hull met the front toe board panel.

I was lucky that the swaged/pressed in sections of the hull were spared from rust and not affected.

Cheers

Gizmo

[Gizmo.7000]

Well Guys....after some research and help from MadDog, my Moke is AKPPB18Y prefix which is supposedly a '79 model designed in 1978.

This would explain why I have the front bumper mounted underneath to the subframe rather than through the front panel and the brake fail lamp wiring/tandem braking system, but still have the large top fill tank!

I wondered why I had these things, but still had the single type indicator stalk and wiper switch on the dash.

Interesting to see how many of those were ever around, or if they were commonplace?

[Terry]

my Moke is AKPPB18Y prefix which is supposedly a '79 model designed in 1978.

a prefix with an '8' in the second last position is a '78 Model built from April 1978 until December 1979 and there have even been a couple with January 1980 on the plate seen. When Leyland switched to the new prefix worldwide for all their vehicles the existing Moke just got the '8' designation for the design year but as such there wasn't any new Moke specifically designed in 1978.

A '79 Model, with a '9' in the 2nd position, was designed in 1979 but not announced/released until November 1979 and is what most commonly call a 'Gal' Moke with the side fill tank. that went on until end of production in June 1982 and the end of sales in 1983.

A Large top fill tank and dual master system, single stalk and wipers on the dash are all normal for a 12/78 Moke but I didn't think the under subframe mount bumpers came out that early so I will take a bit more notice of some of the earlier '78 Mokes to see if they support that. 

Terry

[moemoke]

Looking at my data base, well collection of ebay photos, it seems that between roughly May 78 to Aug 78 they
went from 'through front panel' to 'under slung' front bars.

[Gizmo.7000]

Thanks Guys.

Its interesting what you discover about these little cars every day....there is always something new.

Recently the previous owner sent me the "Passport to Service" book she must have found.

The service book confirmed it was sold in August 1979 in Rockhampton Leyland. Its been in the Mid north all its life.

still has the original number plate combination since new on it!

When I bought it I had the original owners manual given to me.

[Gizmo.7000]

Hi Guys,

Some more progress made:

- Mounted up the inner pan and seat crossmember along with the main heelboard.

All screwed up and ready to weld...holes drilled and weld thru primer in place.

Will weld everything up over the next day or so..

Feeling that I am getting closer to finishing the body work!!

[Gizmo.7000]

Floorpans welded in now.

I drilled some 22mm holes into the inner pan upper walls to allow access later to the void in between this and the inner hull to spray some cavity wax/rust proofer in the future. I will put some rubber grommets in these through the pannier box fronts.

For now I treated the inner sections with Epoxy Paint to help provide some extra protection.

Next I am going to do the inner hull bottoms, seat belt mounts and the seat crossmember.

[Halfpint]

Getting there Gizmo.
Have you researched the filler product your going to use to fill the cavity yet?
HP

[Gizmo.7000]

Getting there Gizmo.
Have you researched the filler product your going to use to fill the cavity yet?
HP

Gday HP,

I saw a post from terry who said he uses Xtroll rust preventative and sprays it in there.

I was going to use that yearly...either that or is there something else that should be used?

Cheers

Gizmo

[Terry]

Hi,

if you use a product like Xtroll that sets hard and 'encapsulates' the metal then you only needs to put it on once every 8-10 years as i is not in direct sunlight. Products like fish oil where it can dry up or evaporate then maybe a bit more often but I would think even those products would be a yearly application.

 Terry

[Gizmo.7000]

Thanks Terry.

Ill upload some more pics of the recent welding work done...got my good body man to do a few of the really complicated parts that best left to more than a "Hobbyist" Welder which is I. Particularly in the front section joining up the Inner Hulls to the main floor and also the Front "closure" panels that I got made up.

 

Scheduled for Paint in Early Sept!! .......Wait for it...I have Chosen CRYSTAL WHITE for the new colour. (566-11572 - Dulon Code).

This came up in the body mans computer under a Rover Group Colour listed from 1972 <> 1989....which I assume is the same one as the Dulon one.

[Terry]

Hi,

Crystal White was a colour used on the Mokes in the late 60's and early 70's. 

Terry

[Gizmo.7000]

Thanks Again Terry.

I am looking forward to getting it painted....then I can start working with some new parts for a change when I put it back Together!