However it came more or less as a short motor. So I am of two minds as to whether I pilfer what I can from my 1100 to get the 1275 sorted or whether I'd be better off/ need to track down 1275 specific parts.
I would try and keep the pilfering to a minimum so that you have a complete or almost complete engine for a spare or to sell or for your next Moke.
nor have I looked into the Distributor options- serviceable unit with new electronic module or whole new unit.
I would avoid a new unit and just get a usable dizzy and place a $65 electric module in it. If you want to be sure get the distributor checked by a reputable person to make sure the basics are working, for example I have seen two distributors in the past couple of months where they were not advancing past about 20 degrees. You could go the whole hog and get it all set up with the right advice curve for your engine etc. etc. but depending on the budget you can do that later. The step up in power from the 1100 to the 1275 will be enough to keep you happy for a while.
I am also unsure of the current diff ratio in the 1275 or in my 1100 to be honest so opinions on the best ratio to run. Bearing in mind that I run low profile tyres around town but will run 70 series when touring or long distances.
I would suggest set up the gearbox with a 3.7 crown and pinion and get a spare set of rims with 70 profile tyres and this will be quite usable when you are travelling on the long runs with the old people. And with the lower profile you will end up with a about 3.9 equivalent ratio and that should be zipping around the town.
I am hoping my exhaust will work with the 1275 however I was thinking about looking at smaller muffler options to better mount it in the rear subframe.
Unless you really do a lot of work on the engine/head then the exhaust is unlikely to be causing any real restrictions. You might get a bit more with a LCB style of engine pipes but again it is something you can do later when you start thinking the 1275 isn't quick enough.
I was thinking of trying to keep the 1100 as more or less a complete unit for resale to recoup costs or to store properly for a rainy day.
Good idea.
It has been clarified to me that the thermostat housing is different so I will have to source one of those and subsequently either have my radiator top tank changed to suit the new inlet location or shell out for a new one.
Another issue you may have is that your Moke is a 1970 and therefore has a wider metal radiator shroud, where the body number is stamped, and when putting in a different engine/radiator set up you may have clearance issues with this shroud. This can be overcome with a bit of careful work on the angle grinder or some custom work on the radiator mounting shroud and brackets. You may have already dealt with this if you have fitted the 4 core radiator, but just something to know about when swapping engines on the earlier Mokes.
You don't say much about the gearbox, but I would say make sure that both units are running the same output shafts, i.e. Pot joints, and that the gear changes are the same, pudding stirrer vs rod change, so that you can use the same drive shafts and the exhaust path is the same. Makes swapping over a fairly straight forward affair.
I am yet to investigate further about the carburetor options- SU vs Weber and inlet manifold options
Noise and power vs economy I think.
But being a 1970 Moke you don't have the firewall depression to accommodate the big donut air cleaner of the HS4 so not being sure what you have there now, but I suspect some pretty little pancake filter, and not directly related to the engine swap but you need to be aware of a possible clearance issue if you start playing with manifolds.
The 1275 has a different LHS engine steady mount so you will need to source one for the engine and probably drill the extra hole in the bracket on the firewall.
Terry
Topic: Going from 998/1100 to 1275- Things to consider (Read 1412 times)