Author Topic: 1275 engine (Read 1952 times)

Drakman · « **on:** August 04, 2018, 06:11:42 PM »

Hello all,

I am trying to find out how to identify a 1275 A plus engine. I have been offered what is supposed to be a 1275 A plus engine with 0.20 over low compression pistons? The bore is excellent, looks to be a very low klm engine but i was told by the owner that high compression 0.20 pistons are no longer available, is this correct?

I know this is a "how long is a piece of string" question but what is considered a reasonable price to pay for one of these engines. The owner is asking $2000 complete with gearbox. I would strip and rebuild it anyway because it has been sitting around in a moke for a while unused.

Cheers

Maddog · « **Reply #1 on:** August 05, 2018, 02:42:09 AM »

Hi Drakman,

Easiest way to identify an A+ engine over the earlier A series is the clamp on the distributor - A+ have a fork type with one bolt instead of the older two bolt muffler clamp style. The mounting lugs for the alternator also moved towards the water pump a couple of inches (no more generators!), and there were also some extra ribs in the block under the alternator.

No idea on pistons, but a quick google search seems to suggest they are still available...

https://www.minimania.com/Piston_Fact_File

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Block/Piston_liners_Rings/P21253-20.aspx?100110&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/C-STN100.aspx|Back%20to%20search

Is it an original Moke engine, or later import?

Cheers, MD.

Drakman · « **Reply #2 on:** August 05, 2018, 07:28:18 AM »

Hello and thanks Maddog,

I will go back down and have a closer look now that i have a better idea about what i am looking for. I did a quick google search but the pistons i found didn't look any different to the ones in the engine ( concave dished).

I believe it is a genuine Moke engine although the owner thinks it isn't originally from this particular moke. He bought the Moke sight unseen and had it transported to him, when he saw the engine he got it going, noted that it was a bit smoky and pulled it out. He replaced the 1275 with a 998 and has resold the Moke.

I did see the Moke the 1275 came out of and apart from some rust holes under a section of the flat top panel, forward of the fuel tank, where the previous owner had glued some alloy checker plate to it as a scuff plate, it was a very rust free gal body.

Drakman · « **Reply #3 on:** August 07, 2018, 06:22:17 PM »

Hi Everyone,

I have seen some where on here or Mokewerx a breakdown of engine numbers, can any one point me in the right direction. Searching here brings up lots of individual engine number searches.

The number i am looking at is:- 12H706AA2030995. The gearbox case has the numbers A/BZ4 and DAM
DC&M 4818
Can anyone decipher what those numbers mean ,does the gearbox match the engine?

I think i read somewhere that the A+ 1275 engine didn't use the water pump/ head by pass hose set up, does anyone know if that is correct?

Cheers
Dave

Terry · « **Reply #4 on:** August 07, 2018, 06:52:18 PM »

Hi,

the number looks like it is a 998 A+ that has come from England as a 'gold motor' many years ago. I bought one new early on in my Moking career thinking I had got a bargain 1275 but this is not the case.

Check the position of the thermostat housing bolts, are there two across the front in the same line as the rest of the head studs/bolts or is there only one and the other two are spaced accordingly?

Terry

Drakman · « **Reply #5 on:** August 07, 2018, 07:04:18 PM »

Hi Terry, the head has been removed and i seriously doubt the head the seller is saying was on this engine was really on it. The so called head is thick in black sludge but the oil in the bottom end is like a fine pale ale. No way that head came off this engine!

The number 2 and 3 cyls only have about 4 mm between them, the 998 engines i have seen have a much larger separation, more like 10-12 mm.

Drakman · « **Reply #6 on:** August 07, 2018, 07:20:00 PM »

I should have added that the water pump has been removed as well. The suspect head has a water pump by pass hose fitting, hence the question re the A+ engines being fitted with the bypass system.

Terry · « **Reply #7 on:** August 07, 2018, 08:14:58 PM »

Hi,

if you are not confident the head is from the engine then the water bypass, which is on the head, is not going to be a good indicator.

Does it have inspection plates to the tappets on the back of the block?

A photo or two would be good.

Terry

Drakman · « **Reply #8 on:** August 07, 2018, 08:41:44 PM »

There is no doubt, it is definitely an A+ block, my thinking is that the seller has removed the original head for what ever reason.

I can't remember the rear side of the block but i don't think there were side plates, the fuel pump was there, i remember seeing that.

I am going back tomorrow to try and sort out the head thing so i will get some pics then.

Thanks for the info Terry

Maddog · « **Reply #9 on:** August 07, 2018, 09:08:56 PM »

Hi Drakman,

That number sounds like a late Moke engine to me - this one is in a 1981 Moke.

Is it the same one you asked about before?

There aren’t many of these around, of the four Gal Moke’s I have only one has the original engine still in it!

All the others have been replaced with an older 1275 from a Morris 1100S years ago. It would be interesting to know why this one was taken out.

Cheers MD.

Terry · « **Reply #10 on:** August 07, 2018, 09:53:17 PM »

Hi,

Looking up the engine number prefix in John Sneddon book it does list a 12H702 but not a 12H706.

the 702 part refers to a Mechanical Fuel Pump, Lucas 16AC Alternator, Std ratio rod change box and is ADR27 compliant

The AA is Carburettor Crankcase ventilation with air temperature control. The atc could be either the flapper on the air cleaner or the waxstat jet tube. The Z denotes a block modification of deletion of the separate distributor clamp, external oil pipe and alternator bracket but I suspect the bad grammar in description doesn't mean the deleted the oil pipe and alternator bracket, merely changed it.

The rest is just a serial number, but what you read as a 2 is probably the Z from above.

On the engine I mentioned in my earlier post the number was on a Brass plaque riveted to the engine block with nothing stamped into the block. The brass bit is long gone but I still have the receipt from when I bought it somewhere to check I not remembering things wrong, it was a long time ago.

Terry

Drakman · « **Reply #11 on:** August 08, 2018, 05:06:12 PM »

Fantastic information gentlemen, yes indeed Terry you are spot on, what i thought was a 2 is a Z. I'm getting old, the eyes aren't what they once were.

That picture of your engine number is as they say worth a thousand words MD.

I have done a deal and i will pick the engine up on the weekend, just what i need some thing else to take up the time i don't have.

Cheers

Drakman · « **Reply #12 on:** August 11, 2018, 02:13:09 PM »

The 1275 again.

Drakman · « **Reply #13 on:** August 11, 2018, 02:14:12 PM »

And another.

Drakman · « **Reply #14 on:** August 12, 2018, 08:29:53 AM »

The head has the number 12G940 cast into it, does that tell anything about the head or it's origins?

The engine number