austmoke

Author Topic: Aurora Rebuild  (Read 753 times)

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Terry

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Re: Aurora Rebuild
« Reply #15 on: October 30, 2019, 12:27:55 PM »
I really like the RC. When you put it on the seams it just gets sucked in where it is needed.

That is the really important bit, getting it into the seams and crevices as that is where the rust will be starting. On the open panels you will probably end up sanding a lot of it off anyway just in normal preparations and the primer and paint coating will seal the metal.

Terry
I'm not questioning your powers of observation; I'm merely remarking upon the paradox of asking a masked man who he is.


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dwethera

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Re: Aurora Rebuild
« Reply #16 on: November 03, 2019, 05:37:42 PM »
I thought it timely to post some progress photos. My MIG welding is progressing but not as fast as my angle grinder skills. The inside of the battery box had nothing left of the Bermuda triangle. In that section I opted to fold a vertical piece all the way to the top of the outer side of the triangle. This was how it was done originally on this car BTW. On the other parts there was enough meat left to plug weld the vertical fold of the floor patch. I opted to butt weld the floor side. It is just spot welded in ATM and I plan to complete the full butt weld when I flip the body upside down. That way I only have to grind off the spots and not the full weld bead where it can be seen. I have to do the strips in 600mm lengths because that was the biggest piece of sheet I can bend in my home made folder. It just takes a bit of time to scribe and file the edges to match close enough for a butt weld.

I will post some before and after photos of my battery box when I get my paint drama sorted.





My Xtroll RC dramas are also continuing. I still have not found a product that will go between the RC and the final paint. It just fries up like paint stripper. If you know of a compatible product please let me know. This is very concerning as I have coated a lot of work with RC. All the insides of the side boxes have been meticulously scrapped back and coated with RC. I want the inside of the boxes to match the final outside car color. I plan to use normal acrylic paint. There has to be some reason why this is happening. Below is a piece of cold rolled mild steel with 48H old Xroll RC applied. The primer was applied by brush and is SCA primer surfacer.



dwethera

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Re: Aurora Rebuild
« Reply #17 on: November 05, 2019, 09:52:13 AM »
I'm not sure why my last post did not make it to the thread. It is in the Topic Summary section??

I tried GP primer on the Xtroll RC and got the same result. I have had no reply from the Xtroll support email other than to say they received the original inquiry.  Not sure about this product. It seems to do a good job but is useless if it is incompatible with most other commonly used paint products.

Do you know if other primer paints like Kill Rust or Rustoleum are compatible with acrylic car paint? Maybe I can use those as a primer layer between the RC and the acrylic top coat?

I think I will revise my strategy and use RC in seam joints and non visible sections only. Remove it with wire wheel in visible places and use etch primer on the bare metal. That way the RC is in the seams where it seems to do a good job and not where it will ruin the primer in visible places. I'm just annoyed that the can clearly states "Easily Painted Over". NOT true!!

dwethera

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Re: Aurora Rebuild
« Reply #18 on: November 15, 2019, 06:11:58 PM »
I'm not sure why my last post did not make it to the thread. It is in the Topic Summary section??

I tried GP primer on the Xtroll RC and got the same result. I have had no reply from the Xtroll support email other than to say they received the original inquiry.  Not sure about this product. It seems to do a good job but is useless if it is incompatible with most other commonly used paint products.

Do you know if other primer paints like Kill Rust or Rustoleum are compatible with acrylic car paint? Maybe I can use those as a primer layer between the RC and the acrylic top coat?

I think I will revise my strategy and use RC in seam joints and non visible sections only. Remove it with wire wheel in visible places and use etch primer on the bare metal. That way the RC is in the seams where it seems to do a good job and not where it will ruin the primer in visible places. I'm just annoyed that the can clearly states "Easily Painted Over". NOT true!!