Rad conversion complete but won't fire up

[Maystro]

I actually installed one of those gemini starter motors and it hasn't missed a beat.  The pre engaged mechanism is heaps better than the stock unit. 
Funny thing is, someone told me the late Gemini starter won't work or be reliable.  I just slotted the holes and it is still running and cranks like on steroids. 

[Steam]

If the Coil is a 12v coil then you do not need the ballast resistor.
Check that you have 12v (or Battery Voltage) at your coil to be sure.

[Maystro]

Hi Guys,  Okay I put my new dizzy in and am getting a nice bright white spark about every second but she still won't fire up.

Back to the fuel side I guess.  I've got a full fuel bowl so I took the bell housing off like you said  to see if fuel was passing through.  Here's a pic.  It looks pretty empty to me.  What do you guys reckon?

Thanks Brad

[Terry]

Hi,

put a piece of fuel hose on the overflow outlet and blow into the float bowl and see if you can get fuel to come up into the carby through the brass ring in the photo.

If nothing comes through try putting the hose over the brass tube and blow back into the float bowl to dislodge whatever is blocking it and try the previous step again.

You still need to block off that plastic 'white' tube at about 8pm of the main body. It will rarely start with that sucking in extra air.

Terry

[Steam]

There may be a kink in the tube from the float bowl to the jet or the little washer may be buggered and blocking the fuel.
If it were me at this point I would slop a little bit of fuel into the carby and try to fire it.

[Maystro]

Ok I blocked that white hose off all together and blew into the over flow pipe and fuel streamed out everywhere so their doesn't seem to be any kinks or blockages. 
Maybe like Dave said just pour fuel down the carby or get some of that start you bastard spray? 
Brad 

[Steam]

Recheck the firing order
Check for compression on all 4 at correct time.
then it should be firing.

[Maystro]

Hi, the firing order is correct 1342 it's the same as my pin number...did I just say that online? 

I would like to test compression, what tool do I need for that.  Cheap preferably, I'm a home alone Moke mechanic?

Anyway I bit the bullet and bought a brand new HS4  from France would you believe.  These things are hard to come by brand new. 

It comes with a APB needle, somewhere in the translation where I asked for a AAU needle got lost.  I'm hoping they post me one in an envelope so I don't have to pay ridiculous freight costs like I did for the carby. 

Brad

[Steam]

Actually I just meant to check for compression ie take out 1 spark plug and put thumb over spark plug hole to feel for compression while turning engine over by hand.
 If an engine has compression, spark and fuel it should fire at least.
 it might be worth going back to basics with this.
turn engine over until no1 is approaching TDC on compression stroke, then take off the dist cap and see where the rotor arm is pointing. repeat this for all cylinders.
You probably already know this but i will say anyway, No1  is closest to the Radiator, and the Dissy turns anticlockwise.
Cheers Dave.

[Maystro]

This Moke is doing my head in.    I constantly smell like fuel as my wife tells me from trying to get my baby firing on all fours again...that's the Moke, not the wife.

Dave I tested compression with my thumb and I was waiting for it blow my thumb off but it was more of a slight blow and suction feeling....again not talking about my wife.   Is this normal.  How much blow should I be feeling. 

I was also wandering since I put on a whole new recond head but used my existing valves and springs, should I have redone all the tappet clearances?  I just bolted the whole rocker assembly back on.  Surely that wouldn't be a reason for the motor not to fire up? 

Thanks Brad

[moemoke]

YES, you should always redo the tappets even if just changing a head casket, and it could be causing
 it not to run as you have confirmed with the thumb compression test. without the correct tappet clearance
the valves may not be closing thus no compression to go bang when the fuel goes in, also valves could be
bent if they have touched the pistons.
tappet clearance is measured in thous of an inch or 10th's of a mm where as a new head could be different by 3 or 4 mm.

[Maystro]

Thanks Moe,

She is alive and sounding better than ever.   I readjusted all the tappet valve clearance's to 0.012 inch.  Some valves had to much gap and some were a bit tight, luckily not tight enough to bend a valve or do any other damage. 

I also screwed the jet adjuster right up so that inner brass seat was level inside then wound it down 2 full turns.  Other than that, nothing else.   

Purring like a kitten, well as smooth as a Kent 276/286 cam can purr? I can't remember which of the 2 cams I put in. 

Great now I got a new HS4 carby coming in the post.   Probably keep it as back up.  A bit of over kill if I buy the extra parts  to make a twin SU set up? 

Anyway thanks guys for all your input to get me Moking again. 

[Steam]

Great result and you have probably learnt heaps on the journey.
For a Twin set up you need a left handed carb and a right handed one, two the same will not work without redesigning the whole setup as the controls are opposite.