Converting all bolts to 316 grade

[Maystro]

Hi guys

I would like to start replacing all my old bots to 316 marine grade.  Since I have just removed the fuel tank bottom plate I would like to start with this.  I know on the outer edge of this plate I will have to stick with 5/16" UNF bolts because the plate has welded nuts of this size.   On the inner edge, the bolts are accessible both sides so I was thinking of starting to convert all the bolts to metric something like a M8. 

Just wandering what the general consensus is about converting to metric or stick with imperial.

Thanks Brad

[yellaterra]

Hi Brad. Personaly id stick with the original type bolts. Most have served the mokes well for over forty years so the design on most was servicable  other improvements on a cost factor would be better value for money. Technology has improved the wheel barrow and replaced the horse but  your moke  your choice really. Yellaterra

[Drakman]

Hi Maystro,

Why not get imperial stainless bolts? The bolt king in Capalaba and  Boltandnut.com.au in Murarrie have a good supply in 316 or 304 stainless.  All your captive nuts will work then.

Cheers
Dave

[Sharks]

Why not get imperial stainless bolts?

This is what we've done, where we can. Engine mounts and such are proper steel, but most else is stainless.

[Halfpint]

I’ve replaced heaps to stainless as well, even the unc bolts on the thermostat housing.
Like the guys said, lots of places can supply them, I bought a box of 100 5/16 unf x 2” long and cut them to suit the 20 odd different lengths  .
Steering , braking and suspension should always remain high tensile in my opinion though.
HP

[Maystro]

Thanks guys.

So looks like I'm staying old school and imperial.   

I think I'll do your trick HP and buy a bulk pack of 2" hex set screws and cut them to suit.   Because for the life of me I cannot find a 5/16" x 3/4" in 316 grade.  Well I can but at $16 bucks a piece and I need 6, well that doesn't make sense.   

Thanks Brad

[Terry]

Hi,

mixing UN with Metric is a bad idea in my view.

There are plenty of captive nuts or threaded holes that you can't change to metric so you are always going to end up with a mix of threads and for anybody that has to work on your Moke  it will do their head in having to switch between them and some lesser type will just lean on the spanner and hope you don't come back complaining about a stripped thread or two. It annoys me to find the odd bolt or nut on a  Moke but a whole car of mixed nuts and bolts is a pain.

For cosmetic bolts and nuts SS is fine but on bolts where the strength is important the SS should not be used unless they are of a similar/same rating, as HP alludes too.

Terry

[Maystro]

Hi Terry,

Yep you just hit a chord with me there about different nut sizes.  Totally agree.   I love the fact that I can just about dismantle my Moke with a 1/2" spanner. 

Beats me though if I can find a UNF bolt in 316 grade.  Is the 316 grade to brittle for a UNF thread and should I just settle for 304?  This is only for body panels and not engineered parts. 

Brad

[Steam]

Absolutely agree with all said.
In some places set screws will not be right like thermostat housing, through bushes, spacers etc.

[Maystro]

Hi Terry,

Beats me though if I can find a UNF bolt in 316 grade.  Is the 316 grade to brittle for a UNF thread and should I just settle for 304?  This is only for body panels and not engineered parts. 

Brad

Correction I just found a place called the Stainless Shop which sell 316 grade 5/16" UNF Hex Set screws. 

https://www.thestainlessshop.com.au/Store/cart_detail.asp?group1=316-setscrew-unf

Brad

[Terry]

Hi,

what is your reason for wanting to put SS everywhere, to look pretty or so they don't rust?

I use silver plated nickel cadium bolts for most of my work, when I get a big enough bucket of nuts and bolts we clean them up and get them tumble plated. I do have some of the more common ones in boxes of 100 new.

In places where looking pretty is important like the small bolts holding the rubber spats on, battery box and side covers(modifiied to take threads and not qtr turns) and windscreens then I use cup rather than hex head in stainless.

If you find a good engineering or nut and bolt supplier then they will probably have decent range of SS fasteners on the shelf or they can order you a box.  Buying online by the bolt is just paying a premium. I have three places I can drive to that have a good range of SS hardware, and engineering shop and two bolt suppliers.

Terry

[Maystro]

Hi Terry,

If you saw my Moke close up you would know I'm not worried about it being pretty, yet. 

I need marine grade quality of any part I can get.  It is a daily driver and I work on the waterfront where it is parked 5 days a week.  The hot dip gal process used must be pretty good since I have been parking it the same salty air for 25 years and the only rust I have is in the front foot wells. 

I have never heard of silver plated bolts. 

By the way that shop I ordered 316 grade UNF set screws from yesterday notified me that their supplier no longer do 316 in UNF format.  I think I will just grind of the UNF captive nuts and replace with UNC which is readily available. 

Brad

[Terry]

Hi,

the Mokes weren't hot dipped, see the various discussions on whether it is Galvanise or Znc Alume etc.  BMC had a process called roto dip for paint  back in the 60's but I don't believe the Mokes used that either.

My bolts aren't plated silver, they are just silver in colour, it is still the usual nickel cadium but I don' like the gold version, looks cheap to me.

For all the reason mentioned over the past few days, switching over to metric bolts is still a bad idea. 

Most of the stainless steel stuff I have came in Coventry Fastener boxes and they are in north Queensland.

Terry

[FNQ]

Hi Maystro


Before you go and grind off your UNF captive nuts ( am i allowed to say that on this forum???) to convert to UNC, make sure you can get good quality spring washers as well... I am not sure if SS ones exist or work,, in my instance it is the poor quality of the spring washer that causes unfastening over time- but having said that UNF thread into cast iron with or without washers are very reliable.  UNC into alloy is because it is a softer material and tighter thread patterns MAY strip the threads unless of course it is the one bolt in the world you can't get a spannner to,, then    it will definitely strip.

[Maystro]

Hi guys

You've convinced me to stick with imperial.   I just want to change from UNF to UNC to accommodate the use 316 grade instead of 304. 

I thought UNC had a bigger thread pattern over UNF so should be less susceptible to stripping?

Brad