Author Topic: Martins Moke - Reliving the past (Read 62898 times)

casper · « **Reply #15 on:** February 20, 2009, 09:01:47 PM »

Yeah it's a great name, I was close to calling mine that but Casper had too much history behind it to leave. 'Stormtrooper' is a good one and is up for grabs

cool avatar too!

Casper

martin · « **Reply #16 on:** February 22, 2009, 02:12:51 PM »

Thanks for the avatar Darth- guess Ive joined the ~~Darth~~dark side!

Darth Moke · « **Reply #17 on:** February 22, 2009, 02:27:10 PM »

My pleasure young padawan...

Darth

Biggles · « **Reply #18 on:** February 22, 2009, 06:13:57 PM »

So now we have Darf and Darfer

smokey

martin · « **Reply #19 on:** February 22, 2009, 06:28:42 PM »

Should it be Daft & Dafter?

Biggles · « **Reply #20 on:** February 22, 2009, 06:31:24 PM »

one and the same Darfer one and the same

martin · « **Reply #21 on:** February 26, 2009, 08:45:38 PM »

Tonight I finished taking everythng off the moke - dropped it down so the subframe was sitting on a couple of pieces of wood, jacked up the body with the trolley jack and walked it away.
Well thats the abridged version, in between rusted bolts, and wrong nuts forced onto bolts, it all went quite well.

and here it is

There is quite a lot of rust in the subframe so I think the easiest way to deal with that will be to find another one.
As for the body, quite a lot of rust, it will definately have to be sandblasted to see what I have to deal with, rather than patch bits as I find them.

Now it is time to work out what to do first, go to the minister of finance to get the sandblasting done, or start on the motor to fix the oil leaks and sort out the front end
Martin

Biggles · « **Reply #22 on:** February 26, 2009, 08:55:12 PM »

G'day
Now you've done it Martin! Theres no turning back.

But its the only way to do it properly. So enjoy the journey
and don't give up.
smokey

martin · « **Reply #23 on:** February 26, 2009, 08:59:24 PM »

When I did my last project car, it was a 6 year effort,just to get the engine done! with 3 house moves and 8 months backpacking round your country in the middle of it all, hopefully this one wont take that long.
I am a bit concerned about what Im going to find in the body though...oh well never mind, pass the scotch

Martin

Terry · « **Reply #24 on:** February 26, 2009, 09:26:02 PM »

Martin,

You might like to change the subject of this thread from 'Tidy up' to 'Full Restore'

Terry

martin · « **Reply #25 on:** March 04, 2009, 10:53:42 AM »

Why is it the week after I pull the moke to bits for a ~~3 month tidy up~~ full rebuild, the weather turns nice again?
The mondeo wagon with the windows down is a very poor second for a moke!
I am still undecided what order to do things in, really need to get the body dealt with first, which will be a long process as I have discovered rust inside the back of the battery box, the front corner of the front box on the drivers side, several holes in the floor as well as the drivers side subframe mount.
I guess this is the chance to make it really nice.

I think a donor mini is in order to get subframe and front suspension as well as a better pedal set and steering column as mine are somewhat tired.
And the list goes on, on the bright side, the battery is new!

martin · « **Reply #26 on:** March 08, 2009, 07:41:11 PM »

After looking at Middies progress and Ians oven poisening technique, I thought I should update my progress ..or rather lack of it.
During the week I spoke to a mini wrecker who advised that the early hydrolastic front subframe could be modified to take the donut suspension, so saturday night i picked up a dirty but solid front subframe.
Today when all the other have to do's had been done I rushed off to the local autoparts to use their coin opperated steam cleaner.
After transferring the grease and dirt from the subframe to my clothes I went home and gave it a good wipedown and surveyed my progress.........

I then realised that the donut suspension would not work as the later frame could not accept the bump stops, and the brackets for the cali bar arn't there

Back to square one so I am stripping the old sub frame to get it blasted and repaired.
Thank goodness I didnt buy the mini I was looking at for the subframe and other bits.
martin

Terry · « **Reply #27 on:** March 08, 2009, 08:46:29 PM »

Martin,

Any mini subframe is going to require you to weld on the bumper mounts for the Moke, whether they are the later or earlier style so that is no reason not to use the sub frame.

As for the bumps stop on my Mokes I normally convert them to use the Hydralastic bumpstop set up and if you got the the upper arms with the subframe then use them too as the pivot point is further away from the ball and cup so the pressure per wheel travel is different and slightly gentler ride over stock mini/moke.

At a minimum to use the subframe you need to get the Hyrda bumpstop, either from your mini wrecker or buy them new. You weld a nice big flat plate on the face where the normal Moke bumpstop would mount. The hydra bump stop will fit over the normal Moke upper arm(provided it is not the earlier type with the flat square piece welded on it). You may have to drill the hole in the bumpstop slightly larger to fit the bolt.

Terry

Biggles · « **Reply #28 on:** March 08, 2009, 09:15:57 PM »

g'day,
Thats a good idea Terry. The bump stops i have are pretty flimsy compared
to the hydro ones. I'm rebuilding my subframe tomorrow so i might hunt around and
see if i have enough to to the same .

Smokey

Terry · « **Reply #29 on:** March 08, 2009, 10:06:04 PM »

Smokey,

the bump stop itself is usually okay but because of where they mount the metal is relatively light and is caves in and then makes it difficult to get the donut out when you need too. By putting the plate over the whole area you can bash it forever and easily change the bump stop when you need too.

Also you don't have to cut the top of the bump stop, that was a pre Cape york photo and i now run full height bump stops. I think i trimmed that one because the top was falling off years ago.

Terry