Mirboo Mokes mess

[Tim]

I'm pretty sure they are the wrong ones, he needs the oval type. Part number is 24A1444. The only one I can find through google is M-parts.

http://m-parts.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=492

I have an old one, you can have for the price of the postage.

Tim

[Mirboo Moke]

Hi Tim,

Thanks for the offer, I will send you a PM.

Cheers
James

[Tim]

Its on its way.

Tim

[Mirboo Moke]

Quick question. My moke has a whole heap of metric bolts and nuts on it from the previous owner. I'm planning on buying some bulk imperial bolts/nuts to fix this, but not sure what the main sizes used on the moke are? I know there are mini-in-a-box sets from the UK, but I suspect that this will be overkill for my needs.

Regards,
James

[Terry]

Hi,

find a local engineering supplies where you can grab a hand full of bolts rather than by the box.

Maddog has a nuts and bolts list somewhere that you can use as a guide, but in general you have a few 1/4 UNF, the majority are 5/16 UNC into Alloy(think gearbox/diff housing) and UNF into everything else and then 3/8 UNF for heavier bolts like shocker mounts.

Terry

[Maddog]

Hi James,

Here is the list of bolts....

http://www.moke.com.au/in-the-garage/104-the-moke-bolt-list

As Terry said find a good supplier and give them the list. A lot they won't have, but the good ones will be more than happy to help if you tell them what they are for and are certain about what you want. There is at least a 50% discount for full boxes, but unless you need more than half the box it doesn't save you much!

Nuts, washers etc it's far cheaper to buy a full box and they will never go to waste.

Cheers, MD.

[Mirboo Moke]

Thanks for that 😀. Think I'll be using classic fasteners as they seem pretty reasonably priced.

Cheers,
James

[Mirboo Moke]

Thread revival...

I have finally had some time to work on the moke and have been working through installing a new wiring loom and replacing perished rubbers. I have also replaced the rear subframe mounts on the front subframe with some box section steel as the originals, although asthetically good were full of rust.

I have come to a standstill though. My ball joint rubber boots have cracked (the ball joints are good though) and I can't seem to remove the bolt from the ball joint from the upper suspension arm. Does anyone have any special tool or truck for doing this?



Regards,
James

[Terry]

Hi,

you need to buy or borrow a ball joint breaker tool.

https://www.minisplus.com.au/classic-mini/product/ball-joint-breaker

They aren't unique to Mokes so you can buy similar and other styles from the usual suspects and generic auto tool shops.

You can have some luck by placing a hammer on one side and striking with a second hammer on the opposite side, but it can be a bit hit or miss.

Either way I would suggest you get the large thread back onto the hub and place the nut back onto the small thread so that when it breaks via either method the hub wont drop to far.

Terry

[Mirboo Moke]

Thanks Terry,

I always wondered what the purpose of that tool was. I've picked one up from the local tool store.

Cheers,
James

[Mirboo Moke]

Does this sound right to everyone (hopefully the link works)?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KpeZs1SKjF8n7Bto9

Also, how do people have their accelerator return spring attached? If I lift my accelerator pedal slightly the revs drop, so I'm wondering if the spring is not mounted appropriately or the spring isn't strong enough (the pedal feels very spongy).

Regards,
James

[Terry]

Hi,

it can be an old cable that is not moving freely or a well worn butterfly shaft in the carby that causes the symptoms you describe.

Looking at your picture the cable should come out of the hole/locator in the firewall and travel between the pushrod and spring on your slave clutch cylinder and then around to the carby. The way you have it now suggest there is a tight turn or kink in the cable.

I would also check your fan belt and relocate the fuel filter to be fore the pump.

Terry

[Mirboo Moke]

Thanks Terry,

It's a new cable, so maybe a worn carby. Do you think the fan belt is loose? There is a filter before the pump also (bit of overkill I know).

Did the video work?

Regards,
James

[Terry]

Hi,

reroute the cable first and see if it improves the issue with the carby. With a new cable it should be a very light pedal with the carby  moving freely.

The video did work, that is where I noticed the fan belt seems to be a touch loose.

Two filters can make the pump work hard if it is trying to push and pull fuel through filters. If you have issues with the car starving for fuel, remove the one before the carby.

Terry