Author Topic: CV removal and replacement - split from Pete Power's "Mighty Moke on the Road Again" thread  (Read 2817 times)

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Terry

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Hi,

Undo big nut on wheel.
Undo top ball joint
Undo steering tie rod end
Remove drive shaft from inner CV (http://www.moke.com.au/modifications-and-repairs/502-removing-driveshafts-from-inboard-cvs)

Remove the drive shaft and outer CV

There is a picture in most workshop manuals  but hold the drive shaft at about 60 degrees so that the CV is 'hanging' vertical and then strike the edge of the CV with a sharp blow with a hammer and it should drop onto the floor(watch your toes). If it doesn't turn the drive shaft around and hit again a bit harder.

Terry

Pete Power

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Once Disc rotor and steering hub are removed, Can you somehow lock the driveshaft to subframe or body and then just belt the outer CV off? Therefore not touching Inner cv at all.
If not TP then if I understand your description the inner cv removed from the Pot joint will not fit through the subframe hole? Can the Outer CV fit through the subframe hole?
Happy Mokin
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Pete

1981 Californian 1275 Galv "Mighty Moke"

"Just because you're breathing doesn't mean you're alive!"

Maddog

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Hi Pete,

It's the outer CV that won't fit through the hole, which is why you have to remove the hub and pull it outwards. The inner will fit either way - ie use Terry's method and leave the joint in the diff, or the greasy method of undoing the boot and pulling the inner half out.


Cheers, MD.
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Step aside coffee, this is a job for alcohol!

Terry

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Hi,

Undoing the top ball joint and steering tie rod(and remove the calipers if you like) will put weight on the drive shaft to work against the Inner CV so that when you hit the Inner CV the assembly will pull out a touch. Also undo the big nut but don't remove it until the drive shaft is out of the inner.

Once the drive shaft is removed from the inner then you back up the assembly into the subframe to clear the outer CV from the hub, but you don't take it through the subframe.

Terry

Pete Power

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Okay, I'm a little more confused than normal.
On the few occasions I have seperated the Inner CV from Diff Pot Joints I take the band retaining the Rubber boot to Pot joint off, I place a plastic bag over the Inner CV boot/assembly and wire it on, no mess. I can see no reason to seperate the Inner CV from the Drive Shaft/ or am I missing something.
TP's method from what I can see removes the necessity to completely remove the steering hub?
Please confirm the following
1. The inner CV still fitted to the driveshaft can be withdrawn through the Subframe with the Pot joint removed?
2. If I undo top and bottom ball joints and remove steering hub/caliper assy the drive shaft can be withdrawn from the vehicle with Inner CV intact?
3. Now complete driveshaft is removed I can replace Outer CV Joint.

4. A good belt on the outer CV should release it from driveshaft.
5. How is the new Outer CV fitted? Just slide on and give it a belt to lock in?
Happy Mokin
Regards
Pete

1981 Californian 1275 Galv "Mighty Moke"

"Just because you're breathing doesn't mean you're alive!"

mattsmadmini

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1. The inner CV still fitted to the driveshaft can be withdrawn through the Subframe with the Pot joint removed? Yep
2. If I undo top and bottom ball joints and remove steering hub/caliper assy the drive shaft can be withdrawn from the vehicle with Inner CV intact? Yep
3. Now complete driveshaft is removed I can replace Outer CV Joint. Yep

4. A good belt on the outer CV should release it from driveshaft. Yep
5. How is the new Outer CV fitted? Just slide on and give it a belt to lock in? Yep, but be careful not to damage the tiny little hardened circlip thing, otherwise there will be a chance that the outer will pop out of the inner, so just ensure that when belting them together that you line up the splines first to ensure a completely straight fit.
I once prayed to god for a bike, but quickly found out he didnt work that way...so I stole a bike and prayed for his forgiveness

1967 Moke - Sanchez (made it to wagga and back...)

Terry

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On the few occasions I have seperated the Inner CV from Diff Pot Joints I take the band retaining the Rubber boot to Pot joint off, I place a plastic bag over the Inner CV boot/assembly and wire it on, no mess. I can see no reason to seperate the Inner CV from the Drive Shaft/ or am I missing something.
If you are comfortable doing it that way then there is no reason to change, the alternate process is just a lot less messy and makes refitting a lot easier, quicker and cleaner.

TP's method from what I can see removes the necessity to completely remove the steering hub?
You can remove the whole assembly by undoing the lower ball joint and the calipers, but in my description you need the weight of the assembly working for you when you try to remove the drivesahft from the inner CV, after that you can remove the assembly if you like.
Please confirm the following
1. The inner CV still fitted to the driveshaft can be withdrawn through the Subframe with the Pot joint removed?Yes, you have to undo the boot.It is the Pot that doesn't fit through the hole in the subframe.
2. If I undo top and bottom ball joints and remove steering hub/caliper assy the drive shaft can be withdrawn from the vehicle with Inner CV intact? Yes, provided the intact inner CV is still attached to the Diff and not the driveshaft.
3. Now complete driveshaft is removed I can replace Outer CV Joint. Yes once you have it out of the assembly

4. A good belt on the outer CV should release it from driveshaft. No, you have to hold the the drivesahft and CV at the angle shown in the book and hit it on the on the edge closest to the driveshaft. If you prop it in a vice or hold so there is no angle then you can hit it all day and it is unlikely to come off. There is a little circlip/ring around the end of the spline and it is this you need to get past to separate the two parts.
5. How is the new Outer CV fitted? Just slide on and give it a belt to lock in? Slide it on and a sharp blow with a soft hammer and it should slip over the circlip/ring on the spline. If it is not working for you, try to mount the CV in a Vice(with soft jaws) and place the driveshaft in the spline and try and push the ring into place while putting downward pressure on the driveshaft and then give it a blow with the soft hammer.

Terry
« Last Edit: April 05, 2011, 12:53:31 PM by Terry »

Pete Power

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Thanks guys I reckon I'm good to go.
Though your last comment Terry seems a little contradictary??
Quote
2. If I undo top and bottom ball joints and remove steering hub/caliper assy the drive shaft can be withdrawn from the vehicle with Inner CV intact? Yes, provided the intact inner CV is still attached to the Diff and not the driveshaft.

Your saying YES I can remove the Driveshaft with the Inner CV attached to the drive shaft. But then say the Inner CV should still be attached to the Diff(Pot Joint) and not the driveshaft.
Happy Mokin
Regards
Pete

1981 Californian 1275 Galv "Mighty Moke"

"Just because you're breathing doesn't mean you're alive!"

Terry

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Pete,

I was trying to cover what you could mean by the CV being 'Intact'. The Inner CV has two parts, one on the end of the driveshaft and the Pot that is on the output shaft of the diff. To me if the Inner CV is intact then you are talking about the Race, the boot and the Pot all still being assembled.

Because the Pot does not fit through the hole in the subframe the only way to remove a driveshaft with an 'intact' Inner CV is for it to be removed from the driveshaft and that implies it is still attached to the Diff.
"provided the intact inner CV is still attached to the Diff and NOT the driveshaft."

If you undo the boot and remove the inner race and balls from the pot then it is not an intact Inner CV in my view.

Terry

 
« Last Edit: April 05, 2011, 01:16:46 PM by Terry »

Pete Power

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Understood,
Thanks TP for clearing that up, I kinda thought thats where you were coming from. Just wanted to to be sure.
Looks like I can have some fun tonight with Pot Joints and shafts and CV's and cups and cones.

Also need to fix the Heater Demister hose, looks like it has split where it pushes into the Heater box.
Thanks Matt and MD as well for advice.
Happy Mokin
Regards
Pete

1981 Californian 1275 Galv "Mighty Moke"

"Just because you're breathing doesn't mean you're alive!"

Pete Power

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10 easy steps "How to" replace a Outer CV
« Reply #10 on: April 06, 2011, 12:00:15 AM »
Had to do the CV on Mighty Moke, so with lots of advice from TP, Oh Great Rabid One, and MadMat, Heres 10 easy steps to do a outer CV - Disc Brakes.

1. The obvious Jack up car, use stands, brick behind back wheel. remove wheel.

2. Order and some fine points omitted to keep brief, but Need to 1st up remove Split Pin, get someone to put the Brakes on and loosen main Drive Shaft Hub Nut, don't remove. I removed the Brake Caliper, less weight and easy to hang out of the way. DONT twist your brake hose. Loosen nuts and seperate Ball Joints.

3. Loosen Tie rod, and seperate Joint. The use of a Ball joint splitter makes this job a absolute breeze and is highly recommended.
 If you disconnect the Drive Shaft from Inner CV as per Terry's post http://www.moke.com.au/modifications-and-repairs/502-removing-driveshafts-from-inboard-cvs and leave the Inner CV in the Diff pot Joint, you dont need to undo the Bottom Ball joint as the Driveshaft assy can be withdrawn from the Vehicle over the top of the Steering Hub assy.

4.Heres the Bottom Ball joint with the Brake Rotor/Hub removed.

5. At about this stage you need to remove the retainer of the Inner CV rubber boot. Under ya go! :o The Drive shaft assy is now ready for removal from the car.

6. Here is the old assy and new CV. Time for a bit of mess, remove rubber boot from Outer CV remove excess grease. Notice my new LED Light $7.00 from Stratco is magnetic so excellent for sitting up inside the wheel arch.

7. Time to remove CV from driveshaft. Place driveshaft in a vice and using a soft face mallet give the CV a firm Tap. It should come apart fairly easy. A lot easier than I expected. Be careful not to damage the Splines on Driveshaft..

8. Check and replace if necesary the Circlip and spring clip.

9. Fit the New Rubber boot the right way round ;). Fit the new CV. Make sure the splines are engaged and a bit of pressure and a tap and they snap together. Once again very simple. This was a worry at 1st for me as I had never done it, but no need "Easy Breezy". My new CV came ready greased but if yours isnt then you need to pack with CV grease. Once greased up you need to fit and retain the Rubber Boot.

10. Basically all thats left is to refit assy to car. Once you have the unit reassembled and torqued correctly "Refer Manual" You will need Jake the Brake or Helper to apply Brake's so you can crank up the Drive Shaft Hub Nut (150ft/lbs). crawl under the car and refit the Inner CV Rubber Boot. Refit road wheel clean up and have a brew.
« Last Edit: April 19, 2011, 03:08:06 PM by Pete Power »
Happy Mokin
Regards
Pete

1981 Californian 1275 Galv "Mighty Moke"

"Just because you're breathing doesn't mean you're alive!"

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Thats a gr8 write Pete.
well done  ;D

mavro

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I enjoyed reading that old post, ah the memories.HAHA
Happy Mokin
Regards
Pete

1981 Californian 1275 Galv "Mighty Moke"

"Just because you're breathing doesn't mean you're alive!"