Author Topic: Cool Breeze - on the road, but still a work in progress  (Read 20554 times)

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KMC

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Re: Brace yourselves, Newie has a Moke that goes!!!!
« Reply #15 on: October 28, 2011, 11:19:11 AM »
Can't wait to see it next week. Locked in "Cool Breeze" already, eh? Not a bad Moke-warming present.

..KMC

Newie

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Re: Brace yourselves, Newie has a Moke that goes!!!!
« Reply #16 on: October 28, 2011, 08:52:36 PM »
Locked in "Cool Breeze" already, eh?

Well, it was sort of locked in for me  :)

I don't mind though, suits the Moke pretty well I think.


A few random photos - feel free to comment if you see anything wrong/wierd.









Sorry some of the photography isn't that great, but you get the general idea.


Here's one of the engine bay. The charcoal cannister (which is in upside down for some reason  ::) ) is going so that I can make room for a battery in the engine compartment ::). Can someone tell me how to reroute the hoses please? Anyone notice anything else?




Newie

Terry

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Re: Brace yourselves, Newie has a Moke that goes!!!!
« Reply #17 on: October 28, 2011, 10:29:54 PM »
Hi,

The indicator and parking light are clearance lights and not legal as the primary indicator.

Check the front of the muffler for a mount of some sort, can't see one in the photos. Also check whatever that hose or wire is that is peeking out above the muffler.

No spacers under the mirror arms so fitting a regular set of side screens will be an issue with clearance.

And what is that blue hose connected to? It looks like it goes from the radiator heater outlet to the manifold.  :o

Wheels are non genuine, you will need to take them off and put some pressed metal rims on and send the old mags down here. :)

Electrical wires between the radiator and the shroud are prime candidates for shorting out.

Check the three wires coming off the Alternator, I can only see one little one.

Terry
Cujo. 1999 - 2016

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Re: Brace yourselves, Newie has a Moke that goes!!!!
« Reply #18 on: October 28, 2011, 10:59:59 PM »
Quote
The indicator and parking light are clearance lights and not legal as the primary indicator.

Good - They annoy me - I really don't like them. Just trying to decide what to put there  :)

Quote
And what is that blue hose connected to? It looks like it goes from the radiator heater outlet to the manifold.

Yes, it is. I thought initially that it was a water heated manifold, but it's a full cast manifold - I thought the water heated ones were only the small ones to be used with extractors?

Quote
Wheels are non genuine, you will need to take them off and put some pressed metal rims on and send the old mags down here.
Nice try  :D


The rest of it I will check out in the morning

Thanks

Newie

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Re: Brace yourselves, Newie has a Moke that goes!!!!
« Reply #19 on: October 28, 2011, 11:27:39 PM »

Just saw the replies...... whats with problem? 72 to 74 had exports, I dont see the telltail signs obvious to me, so what more detail is there?
HP

Sorry HP, missed this one before.

It has a late 70's front end including removable grille. I sort of noticed this before I bought it (in the dark and pouring rain), but assumed it was a modification where someone cut the grille out and screwed on a removable one. On closer inspection it's a genuine factory pressed removable grille front end.

It's had a considerable amount of fabrication work done on it, and it looks like someone has welded on a new face panel

Whatever it is, it's been done very neatly and has been like it for quite a while as there's the shadows of old signwriting all over it and the woman I bought it off said the signwirting was unrelated to the person she bought it off.

I'd rather it was a bit more original, but at least the work seems to have been done very well and the removable front grille is a bonus.


Newie
« Last Edit: November 03, 2011, 07:38:43 AM by Newie »

moemoke

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Re: Brace yourselves, Newie has a Moke that goes!!!!
« Reply #20 on: October 29, 2011, 07:12:20 AM »
I'm pretty sure that prior to 77ish any moke that had an 1100 or 1275 had the fire wall depression
It was to allow room for the bigger aircleaner that went with these motors.

If it was a genuine export it would have a few other body changes apart from the rear tank
and thicker guards (which may be hiding behind those UGLY rubber flares). what changes you ask?
The radiator panel which on a normal moke has the body number stamped it not very wide, does your have
this or is that a piece of rubber between rad and body?
Also the panel between rad and wheel has a removable section, about the bottom 5" or so.
Any sign of a rear tank inlet in the back panel?
1976 Moke 1275cc (Dynky),
1976 Moke(Scarlet) current project,
1974 Moke with Suzuki GTI motor (project), 
1975 Moke rust bucket,
1967 Moke rust bucket

Terry

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Re: Brace yourselves, Newie has a Moke that goes!!!!
« Reply #21 on: October 29, 2011, 08:36:49 AM »
Quote
Yes, it is. I thought initially that it was a water heated manifold, but it's a full cast manifold - I thought the water heated ones were only the small ones to be used with extractors?

I would be looking seriously as to what is stopping the water from the radiator going inside the wrong parts of your engine. :( I will have to go find a similar manifold and have a look but I don't think water should be anywhere near it.

Quote
I'm pretty sure that prior to 77ish any Moke that had an 1100 or 1275 had the fire wall depression It was to allow room for the bigger air cleaner that went with these motors.

Prior to '75/'76 only the Exports had the depression for the 1275 and HS4 carby, the 1100 engines used a 1.25" HS2 carby. Around '76 all bodies started appearing with the depression for the larger air cleaner which was now standard on all engines.

From the discussion I had on the phone with Newie it looks like someone has stuck a 72 ADR plate on a post '76 Moke and bogged up the body number on the shroud.

Terry

Cujo. 1999 - 2016

Newie

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Re: Brace yourselves, Newie has a Moke that goes!!!!
« Reply #22 on: October 29, 2011, 09:03:36 AM »
About to head down to the shed and investigate further, but just another tidbit speaking of engines.

The woman I bought it off told me it had a 1275 in it when she got it (which she swapped into her new Moke) but the rego papers say 1098. She had the engine number changed on the rego when she changed engine (amazingly) but never bothered changing the engine size. I'm wondering whether it actually had an 1100 in it originally - or at some stage.


Newie

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Re: Brace yourselves, Newie has a Moke that goes!!!!
« Reply #23 on: October 29, 2011, 11:27:21 AM »
Smoko update  :)

Been down at the shed with my assistant and found the following:

No.1 worry - Heater hose does run straight into standard inlet manifold  :o :o :o  :-\ :-\ :-\



I have a spare cut down one which I looked at and as far as I can see, water would have tto be coming straight onto the valves in the head  :o :o :o. Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't that just stop the motor dead?

It runs fine and no sign of water in oil etc, so what do I do from here? Obviously disconnect the water hose for a start and blank off the radiator outlet as I don't have a heater. Where do I run the breather from the manifold to? The one on the Red Cali goes into the "dead octopus" mess that is the '79 pollution control system.

More importantly, what should be done about possible water damage to motor. My initial thoughts are to do the run I have planned with KMC next week, do the run down to Aimees, and then pull head off when I get back to check for water damage. Does this sound feasible, or am I pushing my luck. Also thought of spraying some WD40 down the hole to maybe dry up some water and lubricate things - is this a waste of time or worth a shot. Is it safe to do it with engine running?

I'll put the rest of the progress up soon, but this is my only serious concern at this stage  :-\


Newie

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Re: Brace yourselves, Newie has a Moke that goes!!!!
« Reply #24 on: October 29, 2011, 11:52:29 AM »
Further to ID question, it has the body no stamped into the horizontal plate just below the expansion tank



I also noticed that it has heater brackets on the inside firewall if that helps.

Pulled expansion tank off to seeif there was a number there, but no.

Also when I changed seats over I had a good look at seat support but couldn't see anything. Tried feeling underneath for indentations of stamps as Terry suggested but can't feel anything. There are a few sections of very light surface rust on floor and paint is pretty ordinary, so after I get back from Aimees, I'm planning to pull seats back out, clean it up and give it a coat of chook poo before putting back seats on. Will hit seat support with a wire brush then to see if any numbers show up.


Other jobs completed so far:

- Flex brake lines have been cable tied away from moving parts (but checked for free movement with steering). They're not damaged at all. Shiny marks on inside of tyre that MD picked up are from plastic guards over shocks which just barely touch tyre on full lock. The other mark on the disc that he picked up on looks much worse in the photo than in real life. Cant see anything rubbing and I'm thinking it must be something on the pad. Not pulling that apart at this stage  :).

- Ugly flexi flares are gone. Unfortunately ugly screw holes are still there, but that can be dealt with later.

- Mirror arms and spacers are still intact on red Cali, so will be borrowed/copied for this one.

- Borrowed flat radiator cap off red cali as CB had two expansion caps

- Ran hose from overflow tank down guard so that overflow doesn't spray all over motor.

- Stripped dodgy fake sidebox cover stickers of side boxes.


Things checked but still needing attention:

- Terry was right that front muffler bracket is missing - should be able to make something up with some heavy rubber belt? Wire/cable that he could see sticking up above muffler is actually an excessively long brake line which has been bent up out of the way. Very soft so I assume it's copper. Bent them further up out of the way of snags etc, so I'm thinking it's another job for 'ron.

- Alternator wires - I have one light wire going to dashlight, one heavy brown wire (patched and needs replacing) going to solenoid and one 3mm black wire.............joined up to brown wire onto solenoid  ???


Some extra questions

Anyone recognise this type of fuel pump? Looks cheap and nasty to me. I think it's new as there's a shiny new passivated zinc cover over the mechanical fuel pump hole.





Have I got a rod change gearbox?




Thanks

Newie
« Last Edit: November 06, 2011, 10:41:14 PM by Newie »

moemoke

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Re: Brace yourselves, Newie has a Moke that goes!!!!
« Reply #25 on: October 29, 2011, 11:54:43 AM »
You're right in that the motor wouldn't run if there was water going in the inlet manifold
so I'm thinking that the hose or the inlet into the manifold is blocked some how.

Hook a hose upto the connector and see if you can blow through it.

If you have a heater connection on the LH end of the head I'd connect the blue hose to it,
does the other end connect to the rad or is it just hanging there?

If the motor runs sweet I wouldn't be pulling the head off any time soon.
1976 Moke 1275cc (Dynky),
1976 Moke(Scarlet) current project,
1974 Moke with Suzuki GTI motor (project), 
1975 Moke rust bucket,
1967 Moke rust bucket

Newie

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Re: Brace yourselves, Newie has a Moke that goes!!!!
« Reply #26 on: October 29, 2011, 12:17:05 PM »
Thanks Moe,

Coolant dribbled out of the hose when I pulled it off, but I was thinking the same as you - maybe the inlet into the maniflod is blocked off.

Will investigate further...................

Maddog

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Re: Brace yourselves, Newie has a Moke that goes!!!!
« Reply #27 on: October 29, 2011, 12:44:14 PM »
Hi NuE,

Like a kid at Xmas.... ;D

The blue hose must be blocked somewhere - or I imagine the motor would have stopped looooong ago. ;) As you say, it is just a standard 998 pollution manifold for the air pump and gulp valve. You wont need either of the connections, so just find a chair stopper or plug for the big one and leave the plug on the little one.

The other end of the blue hose is where the heater would return, but if you're not having one just block that too. Even better is to pull the radiator one day and remove the whole pipe and solder a circle of brass over the hole in the bottom tank. Every one of mine had come away from the top tank and started leaking at the bottom, so one less thing to go wrong without it.

Have a look at the radiator cap too - it doesn't look like a blanking one, but could be. (Edit - I see you've covered that)

Can you see any water anywhere? A little bit while the engine is running wouldn't hurt, as long as it doesn't leak and fill a cylinder when it's stopped. If you're worried, you could pull the plugs and spray a bit of WD40 in while turning it over. But if it's been running like that then it should be okay.

The cannister should have three hoses on it - two small and one big. One small is the breather from the fuel tank and can be just left tucked out of the way. The other small is the breather from the float bowl, so just pull it off the bowl and leave the tube open. The big one should come from the rocker cover, and the tube on the cover should have a small hole in it. This one will suck air, so needs to go somewhere clean - but don't ask me where. On one of mine I swapped the rocker cover for one with no tube and used a filtered oil cap.

The other hose you need is the big one from the carby (tube around the side near the fuel bowl) across to the breather can under the engine steady near the radiator. This one looks right in your photo.

Quote
I'm wondering whether it actually had an 1100 in it originally - or at some stage.

Depends what year it actually is - the 1100 was standard from 1969 until phased out in around 1974/5, so all there was in 76 was the imported 998. Apart from the exports, 1275's weren't available until around 1978 in the LS1275 and then in the mokes.



Cheers, MD.

Some edits - Too slow typing..

Quote
- Alternator wires - I have one light wire going to dashlight, one heavy brown wire (patched and needs replacing) going to solenoid and one 3mm black wire.............joined up to brown wire onto solenoid

Sounds right.

Quote
If the motor runs sweet I wouldn't be pulling the head off any time soon.

A little water supposedly stops the carbon buildup..... ;D

Quote
Have I got a rod change gearbox?

It certainly looks like one - but it's not leaking oil out of seal so cant be! ;) ;D

Mickey 81 Californian Arnold 82 Californian Baldy 82 Californian Ron 79 Califakian Eskymoke 82 Californian

Step aside coffee, this is a job for alcohol!

Newie

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Re: Brace yourselves, Newie has a Moke that goes!!!!
« Reply #28 on: October 29, 2011, 08:50:50 PM »

Like a kid at Xmas.... ;D

The blue hose must be blocked somewhere - or I imagine the motor would have stopped looooong ago. ;) As you say, it is just a standard 998 pollution manifold for the air pump and gulp valve. You wont need either of the connections, so just find a chair stopper or plug for the big one and leave the plug on the little one.

Yep, dont know what santa's like at your place, but the Moke's better than any Christmas present I've gotten  :)

Blue hose WAS blocked (of course). Deliberately blocked half way along. Apparently PO had the bright idea that rather than block off the heater outlet and inlet manifold seperately (like I've done now) they would get one great long blue hose to do both jobs  ::) ::) ::)

I've removed the charcoal cannister and decided I'll put a fuel filter on the rocker cover breather hose (somewhere down out of sight).

Put a new choke cable in, as the other one was seized solid and the PO gave me a new one which she hadn't gotten around to putting in.

Choke cable took about half an hour - fixing all the electricals which fell apart when we took the dash out took about 4 hours  ::) Well, actually "fixed" is overstating it a bit - will definitely need to be revisited, but at least now it is a lot better than it was before and less chance of wires coming loose just  driving around (which they would have nearly had to do the way they were.

Pretty happy with today's progress. Main thing that needs to be done tomorrow is adjustment of brakes while I have my assistant here. A few other things which would be nice to have done before my runs, but we'll see how far we get.


Newie

« Last Edit: November 03, 2011, 07:42:19 AM by Newie »

Newie

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Re: Brace yourselves, Newie has a Moke that goes!!!!
« Reply #29 on: October 30, 2011, 04:48:28 PM »
Brakes are what seem to be known as "typical Moke brakes". ie. They work if you stand on them, but hope nothing jumps out too quick.

I know they can be better as TLP's Mokes are better and they are all drums.

Terry suggested that I adjust the drums before I do anything else. Tried that, but they won't tighten up. Aren't they supposed to tighten up to the point that you can't pull the drum off? If so, it can't be done  :-\. They barely touch at maximum adjustment. I pulled the drums off and they measure 179, or a smidge over to be precise  ;).

Searched the forum and found this recent one where HP said the max tolerance is 179.3.https://www.mokeforum.com.au/index.php/topic,4210.60.html This is fine as the drums are in excellent nick (as are the shoes) but would it be a fair guess to say that I should have oversized shoes and probably haven't?


Newie

PS. While I had the wheel off I measured the PCD as best I could and definitely looks like its a mm or two over 100, so might actually be the right ones for a Moke  :)

 

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