Author Topic: CYM - Cape York Mobile Build  (Read 23623 times)

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Re: CYM - Cape York Mobile Build
« Reply #285 on: July 29, 2012, 07:50:28 PM »
Very nice
Id say the Spider treatment is....
Shot blasting to make the surface even stronger

Am I right  :o


Mavro

sa mokin

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Re: CYM - Cape York Mobile Build
« Reply #286 on: July 29, 2012, 09:36:33 PM »
All I can say is WOW and THANK YOU!  Now can you explain to me the difference between the x-pin diff and what comes in there stock?

I was picking up a few things and thought this is what I should be using for the brakes and ball joints?



1980 Californian
1976 Moke  (CYM)
1972 Export Moke

Terry

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Re: CYM - Cape York Mobile Build
« Reply #287 on: July 29, 2012, 11:02:53 PM »
Quote
I was picking up a few things and thought this is what I should be using for the brakes and ball joints?

I wouldn't use them on the brakes, the grease tends to work against the principles of friction for stopping.

Terry

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Re: CYM - Cape York Mobile Build
« Reply #288 on: July 31, 2012, 03:41:11 PM »
Hi SA
this could be a idea for your trip





watta u think


mavro

sa mokin

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Re: CYM - Cape York Mobile Build
« Reply #289 on: July 31, 2012, 05:01:55 PM »
Awesome idea - the whole car is great inc the colour and the bike - that would be perfect!   ;)


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Nickomokeo

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Re: CYM - Cape York Mobile Build
« Reply #290 on: July 31, 2012, 05:58:37 PM »
Is that an AMC CUB?

http://amcgb.com/

Nicko

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spider

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Re: CYM - Cape York Mobile Build
« Reply #292 on: August 02, 2012, 08:39:52 PM »
Take 2 (thanks Newie  ;))

Some up-dates on SA's Engine and Gearbox.

Adjusting one of the Idler Gear Thrusts, just so



Checking the Idler Gear's end float



perfect - 4 thousands!

I have some pics of SA's engine going through the machine shop and hope to get these up soon.

Engine Block back from the Machine Shop



Crankshaft repaired



Some final block preparation. Tapping the Oil Way holes for plugs



Removing the top 2 threads from the head stud holes



Checking Oil Way hole alignment with the bearing shells. This one needed correcting



Scowering out the oil ways



Pressing in new Con Rod Bolts



Cleaning the Crankshaft



Measuring the Crankshaft



Checking Ring End gaps



Checking Piston to Bore Clearance



First Piston fitted!



Checking Bearing Crush



Checking and Setting Camshaft Timing. Set for best possible Torque



Old Moker's never die - they just smell that way

It's not whether you win or loose but how you play the game.

Newie

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Re: CYM - Cape York Mobile Build
« Reply #293 on: August 02, 2012, 08:47:24 PM »
Awesome work there as usual Spider  8). If nothing else it confirms that I should stay well away from that high tech stuff. I'd be certain to forget something or get something wrong and blow the whole thing up.

I won't try quoting part of your post  ;) but could you explain why you take the top two threads from the head stud holes?


Newie

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Re: CYM - Cape York Mobile Build
« Reply #294 on: August 02, 2012, 08:52:53 PM »
Spider you are one clever dude,

I wish I had half your skills, I have an engine rebuild on my bucket list.

I have had some head gasket issues and was  recently given a tip about removing the first couple of threads from the block where the head studs go. Next time the head is off I will do this if it hasn't already been done. Is it normal practice to do this or is this just another part of the Spider treatment?
Al

I'm getting closer 150 BHP Vtec moke😁

Budget... I didn't know anything about a budget... I must have missed that memo.

spider

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Re: CYM - Cape York Mobile Build
« Reply #295 on: August 02, 2012, 09:00:00 PM »

I won't try quoting part of your post  ;) but could you explain why you take the top two threads from the head stud holes?

Newie

I remember by looking at what's left in the box of bits!

I remove the top 2 (or 3) threads to spread the clamping load of the stud in the block further away from the hole that the stud is in. It also increases the surface area of the clamping force. You'll often find when this is not done, that around the stud holes it tends to pull the deck of the block up, like little volcanoes, then clamping force on the gasket is reduced and in same case, lost altogether.

Here's a little sketch I prepared some time ago



It would seem that even in the factory they started do this on the A+ engine blocks. The wheels turn slow there.
Old Moker's never die - they just smell that way

It's not whether you win or loose but how you play the game.

spider

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Re: CYM - Cape York Mobile Build
« Reply #296 on: August 02, 2012, 09:02:43 PM »
Spider you are one clever dude, I wish I had half your skills,

Thanks for the kind comment, but I only sometimes pretend   ;D
Old Moker's never die - they just smell that way

It's not whether you win or loose but how you play the game.

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Re: CYM - Cape York Mobile Build
« Reply #297 on: August 06, 2012, 04:14:48 PM »
Hey SA
good luck with the painting...


mavro

 ;D

sa mokin

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Re: CYM - Cape York Mobile Build
« Reply #298 on: August 09, 2012, 05:48:15 PM »
Update - the painting took a back seat to some mechanical work

Here are some resto pics in no particular order

Start with this




Out they come


Gone


Clean and ready



Spider showing me how to replace the bearings with an old pin and no hitting



Finished product



Unpackin' that bad boy



Installing the clutch



Closer look - so nice and clean.  8)



Getting much closer now




Tomorrow I have a bit of a "meet and greet" session in sa mokin's cave with a few forum members (they don't know it but let's call it a work bee  ;) ) so any Adelaide Mokers that are free at 10am with nothing to do - head to my place and say G'day to some forum characters!)

Pm me for the address if you don't know  ;)





1980 Californian
1976 Moke  (CYM)
1972 Export Moke

spider

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Re: CYM - Cape York Mobile Build
« Reply #299 on: August 09, 2012, 06:07:12 PM »
(they don't know it but let's call it a work bee  ;) )

SA, I luv your style  ;D
Old Moker's never die - they just smell that way

It's not whether you win or loose but how you play the game.