Andrew's Moke

[Abatge]

HP
It was pretty ugly where the floor jointed the new rear panel (no impressions folded up myself), so I fitted a u shape cover over the bottom join after sealing and priming and the top required some strength so the has another u shape on the top and I took it up past the top of the guards about 10mm for a bit of character.
Copper rich weld through primer has been my friend on this project.
I haven't really started seam sealing yet but all those lapped joins and tight corners where water will get in will get the treatment.
Andrew

Its looking really good Andrew 
Are you reinforcing the top of the back panel? eg: with RHS. I'm pretty sure the impressions that are formed in the standard panel give extra strength. Probably not a problem at all with all the work you've already done though

HP

[Abatge]

Well its been a while since I have posted, the ole Covid 19 has granted me some time.
i have repaired the rear sub frame and removed the rusted out panels and welded on new panels, sent off to be blasted and powder coated (sorry forgot to take a pic)
Modified the front seat to fit the existing mounts on the car.




Roll bar time but fist strengthen the body to take it using 100mm x 5mm galvanised flat bar and 50mm x 5mm flat for the vertical.



The roll bar was taken from a Hilux rear Ladder frame, cut down sleeved and welded.



Next mounting some 100mm x 100mm square bases to bolt down to the body and weld on some belt belt mounts just turned in a few degrees to line up with the top bolt.



Reused the old rear supports from the original bar and welded onto the new bar (so they bolt on over the rear sub frame support in the tub  rather than the top of the body)





The top seat belt mount was made from a 19mm tractor pin  drill and taped 7/16 UNF and welded right through. (I left a weld bulge on the rear side for strength)





Drilled some holes right through the top boxes ready for bolting down (or up on the fuel tank side)



Drilled some holes for the inertia seat beat..



It was so much easier to mount with the new box tops with deleted battery access holes
Put the fuel tank in and positioned it up and drill the top mounting holes. ( small trick to getting the holes drilled in the perfect spot was to put some blue tack about where the holes would go and put the fuel tank in the right position and press down.
Remove the tank to see 2 small dimples in the blue tack ready for center punching.
So far with the seats sitting in her.







Hope I havent bored you all with this long post !

Andrew

[Halfpint]

You’ve made some progress Andrew, good stuff.
Must be close to prepping for paint then.
Cheers
HP

[Abatge]

Well painted the roll bar (Hilux white 2 pack), came up well and welded in the seat belt floor tunnel plate.
I included a pic of the measurement as I noted other members asked the measurement from the rear bulkhead.

Andrew

[Abatge]

At it again now onto the steering column.
Obtained a Rover 100 steering column (it comes with steering lock and twin stalks).
I modified the end to accept the moke spline.





I wanted to straighten the column up and change the driving position a little, the column had to come over to the left about 35mm as I squared off the fire wall



Cut the end off the pedal box and welded a 35mm channel onto the end of the Pedal box.







Welded some more strengthening tabs on before I unclamped it.




Also cut out the dodgy rusty parts on the rear subframe and spot welded some new panels on.
Black powder coated and ready for reassemble.
Finished product pics soon.



Andrew

[FNQ]

Hi Andrew


I don't know about Tassie but here in QLD the transport Department are pretty particular about welded steering columns.... i don't know if it just needs a mod plate or more likely applicable for later model cars that the column remains collapsible... ??


Just for your info
My reference is a pdf from below
Dept TMR QLD    Vehicle safety Standards page 20
Cheers Darryl

[Abatge]

Darryl
Thanks for the info, I wont be welding the column but fitting a couple of hardened roll pins as the new shaft fits inside the old moke end.
I thought about this long and hard as transport authorities in any state look very long and hard at this issue.
It will still be able to collapse about 50mm if required.

This why I like this forum as it is a great place for info you may not have considered.
Thanks

Andrew

[Abatge]

Found some nice round tail lights I think I will fit 2 x each side.




One looks a bit lonely.


Andrew

[Halfpint]

Hi Andrew,
Its nice to fit a bit of bling along the way  .
Not going to scratch the paint while your scratching your head  as you ponder all the things that might or might not work for you.
HP

[Terry]

Hi,

is the centre white area an indicator or reverse light?

Terry

[Abatge]

Indicator Terry

[Abatge]

Just thought I would give a couple of pics showings the demister plate above the dash.
I didn’t know how the original demister were fixed to the top plate so this is how I went with the flow.
So I made some u shape brackets and nut serted into place.




It’s not a conventional dash but more pics the better.

Andrew

[Canadian Moke]

What are your demister vents from?  They don’t look Moke to me.

Canadian Moke

[Abatge]

I think they’re from a mini as they came with the heater I purchased.

Andrew

[Abatge]

Painted the dash today